Uncrowded Gunks Classics

If you're going to spend a popular weekend at the Gunks, here's some advice: there are lots of good routes to do that don't have stars in the guidebooks. Here's a list of routes that are usually as good as the classics and you won't have to wait in line for. I stopped at 5.9 since a) there's no waiting on the classic 5.10's and b) I haven't started to do obscure 5.10's yet. I didn't include Skytop or Millbrook in this list. Having the Williams guide is almost essential if you want to do obscure routes - the Swain pictures are a bit hard to follow. The Gunks Select guidebook is a good way to go since it has all the routes in the pictures. Pretty much any route described in the text of this book is worth doing.

Little White Mushroom (5.3)

This route at the far end of the Near Trapps is cleaner than many in the area and avoids the large, slightly loose overhanging section common to other routes around it. The descent to the left is relatively short and easy. There is some loose rock near the top so be careful with beginners. Start at the appealing finger crack instead of the line shown in the book.

Tipsy Trees (5.3)

Next to the popular Minty, this route gets much less traffic although it features the same steep jugs.

Willies Weep (5.3)

Just past Madame G's, this route offers a slightly grungy start but the upper wall is similar to Northern Pillar. A better start is Twin Oaks, although that's usually crowded.

48 (5.3)

Some climbs look good but suck. Some climbs look like they suck but don't. This is one the latter. A fine outing for the beginning climber. Just past the Yellow Wall lies what appears to be a hideous, wet, vegitated corner. The first pitch is a nice suprise - clean white rock on the buttress just right of the ugly chimney. Easy climbing leads to a nice belay ledge. The second pitch looks nasty but the climbing is quite fun - a ladder of good holds on the left wall allows you to avoid ever entering the dank chimney. A classic gunks pitch - steep but easy. A little vegitated in the last 20 feet but not enough to ruin the climb. You could add a qualty 3rd pitch by traversing left to the 5.5 pitch above the GT on Lisa (I think - check a guidebook).

Casa Emilio (5.4)

One of the better 5.4's in the Gunks, a long approach and undistinguished first pitch keep the crowds away. An easy descent down Rogers Escape Hatch. Approach on the right side of the buttress at the base.

Yum Yum Yab Yum (5.4+)

As this route gets cleaned up, it will be recognized as a classic comparable to Gelsa or Three Pines. It's just beyond the popular part of the Near Trapps. A lot of climbing on this one.

Red Pillar (5.5)

The left edge of the Arrow wall has an outstanding easy climb. An unremarkable approach pitch leads to a vertical jug pull and a corner topped by an overhang.

High Corner (5.5)

Just right of Shockley's, this has a good pitch of steep face and a spectacular dihedral. The exit from the dihedral is a bit hard to protect - be careful.

Blueberry Ledges (5.5)

Just left of Beginners Delight, this route is much better than it looks from the ground. The crux is on clean, solid rock but the protection is sparse just after you pull the crux. Finish in the dihedral just left of the top pitch of Beginners Delight (for unknown reasons Williams puts this excellent pitch of 5.3 climbing on an obscure 5.10 route!).

Scuttlebutt

A good pitch of 5.5 just left of Eastertime Too. I haven't done the upper pitches but nobody else has either. Rap anchor at the top - a single rope gets you down. A good way to set TR anchors on the other routes in the area.

Funny Face (5.5)

At the right end of the Guide's Wall, this route is similar to Willies Weep. A little dirtier and looser than others to the left, it still has quality climbing.

Roman's Climb Next to Keystone Kop (5.5)

This has a rather poor (tree filled) first pitch but an excellent second pitch through the big overhangs atop this part of the wall. The rock is better than it looks and the pro is good pulling through the hang. A better start is Aftermath P1.

Aftermath (5.5)

A clean line that avoids most of the lichen and loose rock in this area. Climb an easy crack just right of a nose to trees (you can walk up on the right on Roman's Climb next to KK). Step left onto a clean slab. The pro is a bit thin but if you're creative (aliens help) you can climb up on the left side at about 5.4 with OK pro. The overhang above the belay tree is well protected but I traversed left about 10 - 15 feet to avoid a vegitated section. Finish just right of the huge "diving board" at the top. Just a little loose at the very top.

50-50 (5.5+)

This is just past High Exposure. Although this route is pretty much over after the first 40 feet, the crux is nice. A 50 meter rope just barely suffices to rap from the top of the first pitch. I haven't done the top pitch.

Moondance (5.6-)

Not as good as Sundance - a little more lichen but still worthwhile.

Sundance (5.6)

This route is near the end of the Trapps and features steep face climbing on good rock.

Moonlight (5.6)

Although a bit more crowded than others on this list, this is one of the best 5.6 routes in the gunks. The crux is more frightening than High Exposure. Not that runout, but the pro is 5 or 6 feet away as you make the desparately exposed crux move. Start the first pitch on the slab to the right of the corner system, joining the corner at the trees.

Wrist (5.6)

This route has a spectacular and somewhat frightening overhang on the second pitch. Start on Arch to get an extra crux.

Trigger Point (5.6)

All the way to the end of the Trapps - go up from the S turn to approach this one. Short but fun, fun, fun. Steep jug pulling on good rock. There's a rap station 50' up. A little hard to protect at the crux.

Lonely Challenge (5.6)

Although there is a bit of dirty, loose rock in the middle, the top and bottom of this climb are excellent. It lies just past the popular part of the Near Trapps.

Loose Goose (5.6)

A high quality route just past Up Yours. I found the cruxes a little harder than the 5.5 guidebook rating but they are short and well protected. Loose rock isn't much of a problem although there is a little in the middle of the route; the cruxes are all clean and solid. Lots of good climbing. Finish with the last pitch of Up Yours / Horney for a more direct line and better climbing.

Eyesore (5.6)

On the wall between Yale and Harvard is this short but fun and leadable wall. Often unoccupied.

In the Groove (5.6)

Just past Bonnies Roof, this climb has a sometimes wet start but a good crux in a steep dihedral with good protection.

Son of a Bitchy Virgin (5.6)

Not as runout as it once was, this route protects with small cams and/or tricams on good rock. Better than Bitchy Virgin. There's a rap station at the top.

Contradance (5.6)

Although somewhat short and contrived, the rock is outstanding and the moves are fun. Commonly approached by going down Rogers Escape Hatch.

Ken's Blind Hole (5.6)

Just past CCK. A pleasant, slabby first pitch and an exciting second pitch. Start the second pitch below a very old bent piton sticking out of a corner about 15 feet over the GT ledge. A much better pin protects the crux.

The Last Shall Be First (5.6)

Just before high Exposure. An excellent first pitch (a bit of loose rock at the top) and a nice overhang on the second. This seems to be getting cleaner as it gets more traffic. The pro is just a little sparse in spots.

Pony Express (5.6)

This is a bit of a novelty route, although the climbing is quite good. You have to have both Horseman and Apoplexy free to keep from crossing ropes with other parties. Everyone will tell you you're lost as you climb this one.

Bloody Bush (5.6)

Don't let the unappealing name keep you away. Located just right of Rusty Trifle, this route looks unpromising from the ground but is really quite good. Well protected but with an occasional loose hold - be careful. Both pitches are good.

Snowpatch (5.6)

Three very good cruxes with OK climbing in between. Don't let the unappealing look of the first pitch fool you - the climbing is OK. All three cruxes seemed a bit harder than the 5.5 rating in the guidebook. The final bit traversing around the roof is definitely interesting. Just a little bit of loose / lichened rock.

Sleepwalk (5.7-)

Just left of Ant's Line, this starts with steep jug-pulling and continues up a classic outside corner to the Ant's Line anchors.

After You (5.7-)

Just right of Yum Yum Yab Yum. It has a bit of dirt and loose rock (as do all routes around here) but cruxes are solid and well protected. Good slab climbing near the bottom; a wild overhang on the last pitch.

Te Dum (5.7)

This route is just as good as many in the Near Trapps but doesn't get much traffic.

Shit Creek (5.7)

In spite of the unappealing name, this is a high quality route. It lies just past the Spring at the far end of the Trapps. There is a little bit of loose rock on the second pitch.

The Nose (5.7)

Also over near the Spring, this unusual route features a traverse above the lip of a large overhang.

Calisthenic (5.7)

Depending on how tall you are, this route may start with a wild leap to a bucket.

L. P. (5.7)

A good 5.7 slab pitch in the far Nears. I haven't tried the final pitch.

Keystone Kop (5.7)

Another good slab in the far Nears. The pro is a bit sparse on the slab. The final overhang is loose in spots but has decent pro.

Madame G's Sorrow (5.7+)

Also called "Mr. P's" by Swain. Just as good as Madame G's except there's no fixed gear and the start is grungy. Bring lots of cams.

Silhouette (5.7+)

A bit past Arrow, this is one of the best 5.7 routes in the Gunks. Watch for rope drag! Finish on Traverse of the Clods for maximum excitement.

Tequila Mockingbird (5.8-)

A lot of good climbing on this one. Now that the bolt has been replaced, the crux is well protected. This climb features a small roof, a delicate crux, and good steep jug pulling on the upper part. The best line is to start TM but go to the bolt on Dry Martini at the crux. You can also add some extra good climbing by starting the second pitch of TM instead of getting to the bolt the easy way. If there's a 5.6 way to pull the bulge to the right of the bolt (as Williams indicates) I haven't found it. I haven't done the very top part of TM - everyone usually finishes straight up on DM. These two routes are really hard to separate!

Up Yours (5.8-)

A clean route in a rather dirty area of the Near Trapps. Rap from the tree.

Penal Colony (5.8-)

An entertaining way to bag Dick's Prick (way at the end of the Trapps). A bit tough to protect.

Diana (5.8-)

Good climbing right of CCK. I haven't done the first pitch but the part above the GT is good. Loose rock on the easy bits. Somewhat tricky to protect in places but good cruxes.

Traverse of the Clods (5.8)

An amazing route that weaves through huge overhangs near Twilight Zone. A little bit hard to protect but not that bad. Approach from Hans Puss to get lots of good traversing.

Outer Space (5.8)

A very overhanging 5.8 with a delicate crux. Right by the road and often vacant.

Farewell to Arms (5.8)

A classic route just left of Birdland that usually isn't crowded. Lots of good moves - almost as nice as Birdland.

Annie Oh! (5.8)

The top pitch is quite good - just as nice as Limelight or Three Doves. The first pitch is rather unprotected (although this isn't mentioned in the guidebooks!) - start on Three Doves or Limelight to avoid some R rated climbing.

Far from the Madding Crowd (5.8)

Good slab climbing in the far Near Trapps with somewhat sparse protection. Rap from the trees.

Shit or Go Blind (5.8)

A cute but short jug haul near the Uberfall.

Sundown (5.8)

This route is just as good as Frog's Head, which is just to the left. The pro is a little sparse but after the initial crack this follows a separate line.

Dry Heaves(5.8)

A pretty stiff 5.8 - lots of climbing packed into a 1/2 pitch route. The crux is the undercling about 15' off the ground.

Jim's Gem (5.8)

The first pitch is useless - start on Modern Times or Last Shall be First instead. A short but sweet overhang just left of High Exposure. Something to do if parties are stacked up on the GT ledge.

Twisted Sister (5.8)

An unlikely looking route between Baby and Easy Overhang. A great crux but the route merges with its neighbors after the first 40 or 50 feet. The second pitch isn't worth it.

Blistered Toe (5.8)

A nice crack climb just past the Spring. I haven't done the second pitch yet.

Bold-ville (5.8)

Good crack / undercling / slab climbing just left of the Spring. The second pitch has a nice overhang. Classic.

Erect Direction (Pitch 1) (5.8)

A steep crack, similar to Double Crack. Finish on Moonlight for extra excitement.

Lean and Mean (5.8)

Tucked away in the farthest reaches of the Near Trapps, the first pitch is mundane but the second is a wild, overhanging corner.

Glypnod

Less travelled than surrounding climbs but still worthy. The pro is fine and the last pitch has a very good overhang on it.

Almost Pure and Simple (5.8)

It's short but the climbing is good. Nice crack climbing - a little unusual for the Gunks. Not worth the walk by itself, but there are a lot of nice climbs in the area.

Bloody Mary (5.8)

Just right of Drunkard's Delight, this climb doesn't get nearly as much traffic. As with Drunkard's, the crux is low and a bit hard to get the pro in (small wires or cams). The roof is almost as good as Drunkards too - certainly more frightening to lead!

The Blackout (5.8+)

This route is just right of Betty. The "R" rating in the guidebook scares most people away but the pro isn't that bad. The last pitch features an exciting overhang protected by a (new) bolt. The scariest part is doing the clip.

Gory Thumb (5.8+)

While the first pitch is usually as high as anyone goes on this route, the upper pitches are good too. The crux is well protected by small wires. The bolt on the second pitch is very old but there is a fixed pin a few feet higher to back it up and other pro can be found. The rock on the upper pitches is generally solid and clean in spite of minimal traffic. Finish with the 5.7 overhang variation to V3, about 20 feet right on the GT ledge to yield 4 quality pitches.

Moxie (5.8+)

This is a bit right of White Pillar in the nears. Although a short pitch, this climb has more 5.8 than many routes that go all the way to the top. Start straight up a slab beneath the hanging corner if you don't mind a tough boulder problem right off the ground. Bring some small cams / lowe balls to protect the crux.

Higher Stannard (5.9-)

Between Something Interesting and M.F., this route doesn't seem to attract as many climbers as those on either side. The pro is all there.

No Glow (5.9-)

The first pitch is worthless - consider Three Vultures or CCK. The crux is well protected; a long reach at an overhang.

I'm OK - You're OK (5.9-)

The first pitch is great and takes pro. The second is probably 5.9+ R (we toproped it after backing off) but you can avoid it either left or right.

Land's End (5.9-)

Better pro than it looks from the ground but still scary to lead. There's no real crux - just 40 or 50 feet of steep, continuous climbing with few good rests.

Insuhlation (5.9)

Just past High Exposure, the good parts of this route are almost invisible from the ground. The crux is slightly overhanging face with good (but somewhat widely spaced) pro.

Friends and Lovers (5.9)

Next to Snooky's Return, this climb is often top-roped but is quite leadable. The pro is just below your feet at the delicate crux but is otherwise fine. I haven't done the upper pitches on this yet.

Fat City (Pitch 1) (5.9)

Do a quality pitch of 5.9 and then wimp out when faced with the 5.10R part!

Three Vultures (5.9)

The crux is a boulder problem at the ground. The second pitch has an exciting hand traverse over the void. A big cam helps protect the traverse but isn't absolutely necessary.

Proctoscope (5.9+)

A tough one to lead - bring small wires and prepare to run it out a little at the crux. Just left of Andrew. Now featuring an additional fixed pin; not nearly as committing as it used to be.
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