Climbing with Kids and the Gunks

I've been taking my sons to the Gunks for years. The problem with climbing with kids at the gunks is that many routes have long reaches that render them far harder than their grade for smaller climbers. Also routes with serious traversing are poor for taking kids up. Many popular routes near the Uberfall are probably OK but are not included since they are always busy when I'm there.

Here are some of the good routes and areas for kids:

Crimson Corner (5.0)

A good choice for the really small ones. Low angle.

69 (5.4)

This worked fairly well even though it involves a traverse.

Belly Roll (5.4)

If you're small enough to go inside the belly roll crack at the crux this actually gets easier for small kids.

Easy Overhang (5.2)

One of the best kid routes at the Gunks.

High Corner, first pitch (5.5)

Three Pines (5.4)

Excellent for smaller climbers. The final pitch may be a bit much, though.

Beginners Delight (5.3)

Worked well although there's a fair amount of traversing. For bigger kids.

Snookeys Return (5.8)

I've had a hard time getting kids on the tougher routes but this one worked better than most.

Southern Piller (5.3)

Guide's Wall (5.2 - 5.7)

Many good toprope opportunities.

V3 (5.7)

Red Pillar (5.5)

Easy V (5.3)

Andrew (5.4)

Moonlight, pitch 1 (5.4)

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