Climbing in the Ragged Mountain Area
Although Ken's guidebook has lots and lots of routes in it, most of
these are real dogs. Also, it's really hard to tell what you can lead
without risk by reading his book. The routes listed here are (almost) all
leadable with adaquate pro. Ratings and *'s are completely my own.
I've made no attempt to include toprope routes. Worthless routes not
ncluded: everything here is at least somewhat worthwhile.
Pinnacle Peak
- Zambesi Hatchet Head * PG-13 5.8
- First Crack * G 5.4
- Second Crack * PG 5.7
Spider Wall
- Tarantula ** G 5.8
- Candle in the Wind ** G 5.9+
Cracked Block
Fox Den
- Crack in the Ice * G 5.7
- Crack and Treat *** G 5.8+
Ragged Mountain - Main Face
Most of these routes are in Reppy and
Streibert's guidebook to the Ragged Mountain.
- North End ** PG-13 5.9
- Animal Crack ** PG 5.9
- Owl Perch * PG-13 5.8-
- Cemetary Vault * G 5.7
- Marlinspike * PG-13 5.8
- Aniient Way ** PG 5.5
- Leftover ** PG-13 5.9
- Deception * PG 5.7
- Sunday Bulge * PG 5.6
- Mays Way * G 5.4
- Unconquerable Crack *** PG 5.10a
- Subline *** PG 5.11-
- Bombay ** G 5.9
- Main Street PG 5.4
- Wishbone * PG 5.7
- Kor Crack * PG 5.9-
- Bushy Groove * PG 5.8
- Juniper Wall * PG 5.8
- Vector ** PG 5.8
- Side Entry * PG-13 5.7+
- Wiessner Slab *** PG-13 5.3
- Tower Crack * PG 5.7+
- Faceout ** PG-13 5.9 Bring RPs.
- Wiessner Crack ** PG 5.8
- Knights Move * PG 5.4
- Knights Gambit *** R-X Used to be leadable until chopped by local
asshole.
- Wet Wall ** PG 5.6
- YMC Route *** PG 5.9 Avoid unprotected start on left
- Broadway *** PG 5.8
- Carey Corner ** PG 5.8-
Small Cliff
- Ego Buster * PG-13 5.9
- Layback * PG 5.8 Avoid initial overhang: 5.5
- Diagonal ** PG 5.6
- Spread Eagle * G 5.5
- Troll * G 5.5
- Black Troll * PG 5.5
- Black snake slab-l * G 5.4
- Black snake slab-c * G 5.6
- Black snake - right * PG 5.4
May Crack Block
- May crack * G 5.8+
- Thin Line * PG 5.7
Owl's Lair
- The Bad * PG-13 5.7+
- The Ugly * PG 5.8 Flake missing now?
- Serendipity ** G 5.6
Castle Crag
Ampitheater
- Journey to Scenter ** PG 5.9
- Black Corner * PG-13 5.8 Stems
Merimere Face
- Thors Hammer *** PG 5.9 Bring big nuts (#3, #4 Camalot)
Cathole Pass
- Arrowhead * PG-13 5.8
- Pegasus *** G 5.8+
- Golden Book * G 5.6+