June 1993

We started with two days of solid rain - east coast weather in the west! I was bummed. Finally it got nice and we met up with Alan Wendt and his wife Sarah and new kid Rebecca (3 weeks!) in the Platte. Before they arrived we went up to Java dome near the Chutes. Eric buzzed a short 5.7 friction and Marti took him up a longer 5.6 friction - he had no trouble but got tired of climbing after a while. We then met the rest of the gang, inflated the kayak, and ran the chutes numerous times. The next day I went to Wigwam dome with Dave and Cynthia (now a couple!!). Dave heroicly let a 10 bolt route that wasnt in the book. I popped off the crux a few times as the crystals broke under my weight. I then led a nice 5.9 crack route: Tepee Tower Crack. I only had 4 pieces that fit (consistant 2.5 - 4 inch) so there was a lot of back cleaning. We finished with Rambling Rose. It has a couple of cool but easy pitches laybacking under a monster roof. Then Dave led the 5.10 crux with lots of whimpering (after telling us how studley he is and how 5.9 and 5.10a are totally casual) and a runout 5.9 slab. We rapped off 1 pitch from the top when it started to thunder around us but it never hit. This is the nicest rock I've been into in the Platte - very alpine in the setting.

Next day I hit Eldo with Marti and Dennis, an old climbing buddy. We bagged the Green Spur (5.9) and the 1st pitch of the Yellow spur (5.9). Grandma and Uncle Alan watched the kids - what a deal!! That night we started driving to New Mexico.

Tuesdy we met Chuck Hansen, an old yakking buddy, and kayaked the Chama. Very nice but easy.

Wednesday Marti and I checked out the Overlook in White Rock, right near Los Alamos. The ratings were totally bogus and the rock was sort of strange but we bagged a route before total darkness.

Thursday came the news of the bombing at Yale. I know Dave Gelernter fairly well and have worked with him on occasion. The news was a total shock and we spent all day logging into Yale for fresh news. Dave is stable now but we don't yet know what permanent damage there will be. The FBI wants to talk to me tomorrow.

After the conference was over we drove back to Denver. I climbed in the flatirons Saturday with Marti's cousin Paul and his son Brad (12). Brad is a regular rock monkey and flashed everything we did. I'll have to bring him on some more climbs in August.

Sunday was the grand finale: Days of Heaven in RMNP. I wimped out on the initial roof. Dave finished the pitch up a thin crack. The second pitch was really nice with a thin face traverse between cracks and a wild finger jamming finish (10) - I led with lots of whimpering ad a few falls. The final pitch is a 10+ hand jam and layback - Dave led with some hangs. All in all, a very cool route.